With only about 20 hours in Finland, we wanted to make the most of it. So it was up and out at 6:00 to go to the central outdoor market (including a search for munnkis - Finnish donuts!). Our hotel is right in the city center, across from a beautiful park.
It was nice to walk around a modern city after a week of "old towns". We actually got to the market before most of the vendors had set up! But luckily there were a few photo ops and Wendy did get to do some tastings.
After a leisurely breakfast (at which the buffet included "roast horse meat" - we never did see reindeer!), we took a short bus ride to the Central Station for our 3.5 hour train ride to St. Petersburg.
Our guide Erich was actually born here (though lived much of his life in Germany) and still has an apartment in town. He told us that the Russian ethos is one of suffering. Luckily, this did not extend to our ride, as we were in a very comfortable first-class car with free lunch served flight-attendant style by two lovely Russian ladies
Our passports were checked by Finnish border control soon after the train left the station and Wendy was actually asked to remove her glasses for optimal identification! Then, they were checked again about an hour later. Then once more by Russian officials just after we crossed the border. As we have found pretty much everywhere in our travels, the train was clean, smooth, and extremely on time on both ends.
Privyet everyone!
After arriving at 2:37, we got on the bus and crawled through the traffic getting our first sight of the Neva river, some of the 342 bridges (this is the "Venice of the North", as the city is actually built on many islands and canals), and lots and lots of neo-classical buildings and palaces. Even though the day was quite gray, it's pretty obvious this city is spectacular. Note that this part of the city is called the "historical district", not the "old town" as we saw in the Baltics.
Speaking of the weather, our guide told us that they often have 4 seasons in one day here (wow! Just like Chicago!). She said, in the summer they go to work in the morning with sunglasses and an umbrella.
Our only stop was at the St. Peter and Paul Cathedral, which is inside the Peter and Paul Fortress (ok....does anyone else see anything discordant about that juxtaposition?). At the top of the spire is an angel holding a cross, the symbol of the city. Legend says that if this ever comes down, the city will fall (gotta love those legends!). The inside is very ornate, and mostly covered in gold leaf. Our guide said that about 50,000 people visit per day.
This church is also the resting place for almost all of the Russian emperors and empresses...
...including the recovered remains of Nicholas II and his family (which were not actually put there until the 1980s and 90s). Read more here about why they are in a separate chapel off the main area.
We left the Fortress and headed toward Nevsky Prospek (past the Hermitage and other sites we will be visiting over the next several days) and arrived at the Belmond Grand Hotel Europe (a grande dame of a hotel--lovely in every way). Dinner was at the touristy, kitschy Tsar Restaurant,where not a native Russian (except for staff) was to be found. A dinner fit for a tsar and tsarina with such classics as Chicken Kiev and duck breast with berries and sauerkraut.
Another definite highlight was the playing of the Russian national anthem at 9. We were told standing up was optional (and one of us did).
The service was, shall we say, snail-like. Don't know if this is the normal way in a fancy restaurant or not. We got there at 6:45 and left at 9:20!
Wednesday, August 15, 2018
A long day of touring today, so get comfortable.
We set out at 7:15 (yes...….a short night), for the 45 minute ride to Peterhof Palace. This was designed as a summer "home" in the 1720s by Peter I. We went early so that we could avoid most of the 20,000 daily visitors (a lot of whom come from the many cruise ships that stop here).
We have seen estates like this, such as Versailles and Schoenbrun, and it was equally as opulent and grand. It is set in the middle of a huge designed park, with many wonderful gardens, smaller outbuildings, and fountains --150 of them! As to the latter, they are divided into 3 types: those celebrating education, those in remembrance of military triumph, and trick fountains. These are cleverly designed so that a visitor (perhaps a fine lady in powdered wig and silk and lace gown) will get totally sprayed with water if she walks or sits in a certain place or time! Hours of royal fun!!!!! These days, the times when the fountains will "trick" you are clearly posted, so that those who want to get wet can, and those who want to watch can safely stand to the side.
The amazing thing about this place is that it was almost completely destroyed by the Germans in WWII. Only a few long exterior walls were left standing after the Siege of Leningrad (as the city was known then). Luckily, a lot of the furniture, paintings, wall silks, etc., had been removed for safekeeping prior to the war.
Rebuilding began in 1958. So much of the structure and gardens that we saw today are relatively new, though much of the content is original (if not specifically to this palace, then of that period).
Rather than more words to describe, here are some photos. First, of the interior rooms:
That's us reflected in one of the mirrors in this room!
….and the surrounding grounds:
And then there was this sign.....
...which made it easy for us to be on the lookout for people wearing black masks!!!
One of the "touristy" highlights of each day occurs at 11:00 (sharp!). That is when the main fountain (which shoots up 59 meters) and its surrounding fountains are turned on by one of the many "fountain masters" who work there). So at about 10:30 people start lining up at the rail in the upper gallery area and on the first bridge in the lower garden. The fountain starts as the national anthem (at the time of Peter) is played. Not as spectacular as a Disney light show, but impressive nonetheless. Here is a video we took of the ceremony. It is a little unsteady because everyone was jostling to get the same shot.
Then a fine lunch at one of the palace restaurants (probably not there in Peter's time), and a 35 minute hydrofoil ride back to town. We did this because it probably would have taken well over an hour in the bus with the traffic at this time of day.
We then drove to the Grand Choral Synagogue. This is the third largest one in Europe, and was built in the 1880s with the permission of Alexander II. It was completely untouched during WWII, and was always kept in good order during Communist days as a showplace to prove that all religions were tolerated. Today there are 80,000 Jews in St. Petersburg, but, sadly, according to the Cantor (who was our on-site guide), hardly anyone attends services on a regular basis. This, according to him, is because some are fearful, but many others "had forgotten the ways of prayer during Communist rule". Of course, just as at home, many still go twice a year. This Orthodox synagogue can hold up to 1,300 people.
The main sanctuary and Ark:
And a smaller, very ornately decorated side chapel (used for weekly Shabbat services)
The Cantor / docent was Gregory Yakerson. His English was impeccable, perhaps because he studied in Florida and Tennessee. He pointed out the amazing acoustics of the main sanctuary (as Orthodox, they still do not use electronic sound equipment), and gave us a short sample of chanting. He was right! Here is a clip of him in action (but not from our visit).
This says "Rosh Ashana (Hashona) - 5779"
Then back to the hotel to rest up. It seems like the St. Petersburg leg of the trip is all about the Tsars and the Glory of Russia, while our time in Moscow will be more about more modern history. This is in line with what our guide told us: "we have two capitals: St. Petersburg is the cultural capital, and Moscow is the governmental capital." Of course, there a many cultural venues in Moscow as well.
So our remaining cultural activities (yes, plural) on this full day are high tea (including champagne and 3 open faced sandwiches)….
….and a full performance of the Swan Lake ballet at the Michaelovsky Theater!
Of course, no pix of the actual performance.
In between those we walked around the neighborhood and stopped at a fancy food / confection store which had some amazing marzipan:
And finally....we went to Onegin, a big souvenir store, to check out the matryoshka dolls. They had a huuuuge selection.....
...including political figures, Russian authors and composers, and American sports teams! They even had the White Sox and Bears.....but #^**@&!!!! no Cubs (which we most certainly would have bought). They must be a big seller!!!!
One last note: One of our travel companions noted that the Russians we have seen on the street look very serious. Also, we have been looking for a "dress up in silly historical Russian costume" (as we have done elsewhere) and have been unsuccessful in finding one. Is there a connection between these two?
OK....we have to say it in closing:
From Russia with love,
w&w………………………...
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