Forecast for today: 90% rain!!!!!! So we have had to alter our plans.
We were going to do a catacombs tour, but decided not to because of the rain / slipperiness (can't afford a twisted ankle on concert day!), and because the timing would have made fitting in a meal problematic (mon dieu!). So we will save that for our next visit to Paris.
So the plan is breakfast, donut expedition, Picasso Museum, late lunch, concert, sleep.
Our plan was to take the Metro to the donut shop and then get back on and head to the museum. We walked about a block and decided it was just too blustery and rainy to be traipsing around (each locale was a few blocks from the closest station), so we headed back to the hotel and had them hail a cab for us. As usual on donut safaris, we made sure that our driver would wait for us while we were inside. In heavy morning traffic we got there about 15 minutes later.
Boneshaker Donuts is a crazy place! Not much bigger than a phone booth, it features a rotation selection of a half dozen flavors a day.
Wendy chose a Hoppy Days, which was a chocolate cake doughnut with chocolate ganache icing tinged with swirls of creme brule meringue. Maxim was happy to serve us.
In and out in cinq minutes. True to his word, our driver was waiting outside. Another 10 minute ride brought us to the Picasso Museum, back in the Marais district. As we were buying our tickets, the clerk informed us that only the special Picasso - Calder exhibit was open, and that the other two floors of the museum were closed to allow for a new installation! But, they were offering a discount on the ticket price, so we bought them anyway.
Like the Jewish History Museum, this one is also housed in a building from the late 1600s! We agree it is better to refurbish and re-purpose them then to tear them down.
This was a great exhibit, pairing works of the two men who both worked in a variety of media--and broke the molds and constraints of traditional art.
Looking up the staircase at a Calder mobile in front
of and surrounded by classical sculptures.
Quite the juxtaposition!
"Head of a Woman", 1962
Picasso was a great artist, but
didn't get very creative with
naming his works.
La Professeur explaining the finer points
of Calder to her eleves. Most were
focused elsewhere.
Since we didn't spend as much time there as we had planned, we were able to take a leisurely stroll through the Marais...in spite of the chill and constant drizzle. And because we were in an artistic mood and had not had a chance to buy, let alone look for something as a trip remembrance, we were on high alert for any galleries. We saw a few, but looking in the windows quickly realized that the works on display were not "us".
Then, we espied L'Eclair de Genie , ostensibly the best eclair shop in Paris! Donuts, eclairs, croissants!!!! What a great town! Of course, we had to stop in and check them out. So beautiful, though neither of us is partial to eclairs.
We were getting close to the St. Paul Metro station, but still had time to spare, so we turned down a side street and found a very inviting gallery! Inside, we saw several beautiful pieces by an artist named Patrick Pinkhas, a French Jew born in 1975. Some of them had ribbons of musical notes! And Pincus is Wendy's maternal grandmother's maiden name. So the odds were pretty high we would purchase one of these!! Here is a close-up shot of what we chose:
It is titled "Juggler of the Stars" and certainly has a Petit Prince feel about it. Bright, whimsical, folk-artsy, and perfect for us!!!!! And the saleswoman (named Chagall!) was as happy with the purchase as we are.
Along the way, we noticed (not for the first time) that some side streets had a number of electric car chargers along the curb! Many were in use. What a great service to have available! Then, once more onto the Metro, for a quick stop at the hotel before getting a late-lunch - early-dinner (the choir had to be downstairs for the bus at 5 pm, though the concert isn't until 8).
Our destination, Le Sens Unique, was suggested by the concierge as being a "real French restaurant" instead of a tourista place. And she was right! Just two blocks from the hotel, we got there at 1:30 and it was nearly filled with people speaking only French.
Wendy had one of the specials: tuna with petits pois and Spanish chorizo. Amazing mix of flavors!
Wayne had prawns over linguini, with some sort of coriander sauce. Pour mourir!
Since this was our last meal of the trip, we had to have dessert.
Wendy chose the tarte tatin....an apple-upside-down cake, with vanilla cream.....
...while Wayne had the chocolat fondant; not one, but two small sweet, oozing lava cakes with raspberry sauce:
FOOD COMA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Arguably, this was the best meal of the trip! Nice way to finish.
And finally....the concert. It was incroyable! What a magical experience and joy to look out at the standing room only audience and see Wayne in the 2nd row--painstakingly recording as much as he could.
The program was eclectic with some Kol Zimrah favorites (attached here) along with a world premiere, two gospel pieces, soaring Yom Kippur melodies, and the Pentatonix version of Leonard Cohen's "Hallelujah," among others. Plus, Pavel (our director) did a few solos and duets with Cantor Sofia Falkovitch who had some soaring solos of her own. It was heavenly and the audience's reaction was wonderful--featuring rhythmic clapping when they were really getting into it and a standing ovation at the end. Here is one of the songs:
One of Wendy's colleagues told us that at a performance of the Chicago Symphony Tuesday night, the audience had done the rhythmic clapping as well. So, that must be a thing here! We are blessed to have had many "experiences of a lifetime." This was certainly one of those! The entire program will be posted on the synagogue's website soon. Go to the Copernic Music page.
A few final riffs on France in 2019 compared to 1995 and in general. Paris can be summed up as monuments, museums, and meals. A winning combination. Perspectives:
- In one way, Paris is unchanged.....it still has block after block after block of those chimneyed, iron-balconied, 4-story, gray stone buildings.
- Les chiens (dogs). Last trip, we were struck by the number of dogs dining with their owners (oftentimes in five star restaurants). This time, no dogs at all! Ah, les temps—ils passent (the passage of time).
- Les echarpes (scarves). It is stereotypical to think of the French and scarves. We had not been to France over the winter / spring months before this trip. Alas, it is true! Everyone wears scarves— regardless of gender or age. They are twisted somewhat similarly and appear in many different fabrics. Wendy, of course, packed scarves for the trip in anticipation of this "fashion must"--but scarves were so ubiquitous, it was so cold and there were so many retail options, that she simply had to purchase two— one in Normandy and one at L’Orangerie.
- La langue (the language). During Wendy’s first trip here in 1974 ( when her French was relatively finely tuned), it was expected that tourists speak French and speak it well. In fact,she recalls being corrected (and not with kindness) by a shopkeeper. During our first trip together in 1995, French was appreciated but not mandatory. During this trip, it seems like everyone speaks English who at least wants to speak English. So different! Our guides or hoteliers apologize when their English is not “up to par”. That said, when Wendy spoke French (increasingly rustily) , folks seemed to appreciate it (and, indeed were surprised by it) and only a small handful responded in English or pretended not to understand. What a change!
- The traffic is just as crazy, if not more so, than we remember. We have seen a lot worse in other places over the years, but Paris traffic is right up there. Last time we had a car and participated in the fray; don't think we'd try that again!
- Smoking. Last time, smokers were omnipresent--particularly in restaurants. This time, not so much. On the street, there were many smokers and when you're not accustomed to that, it can be problematic. But, certainly not like the last time.
Not sure when or where our next adventure will be (as we recently bought a new house and are land barons at present with two homes), but we will keep you posted.
Merci comme toujours for traveling with us. Au revoir pour maintenant.
Avec amour,
w&w
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